Wind-generated waves: wind wave generation, statistics and forecasting. Mechanics of wave motion: linear wave theory, wave kinematics, pressure, energy and power, wave group celerity, shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection of waves, wave breaking and runups. Coastal wave level fluctuations: tides, seiches, surges, wind setup and basin oscillations. Coastal zone processes: beach profiles, longshore transport and sediment budget. Coastal structures: fluid loading, breakwater design.
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